Newfoundland Fjords and the Lobster

How romantic is the idea of an old home, perched up on a small hill by the sea, with the waves slowly lapping at the rocky shore?   We found one of these homes in Portland Creek, the Entente Cordiale Beachfront Inn.   The Inn has been on this property of 7 acres for 20 years, is full of lovely antiques and it is a very peaceful place.  Even better, it is just north of the Gros Morne National park which we looked forward to visiting.  The second largest National Park in eastern Canada, Gros Morne National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a wide variety of terrain.   They even have four moose for every square kilometer!   Surely, we will see a moose here.


As we drive down the coastal road through the park, we see big cliffs in the distance, the fjords.   We parked in a relatively empty parking lot to take the long walk to the boat.  We walked in the pouring rain for 45 minutes over a coastal plain along a dirt path and over several boardwalks to get to the Western Brook Pond where the fjords rise steeply up on the far side of the lake.  We met a frog who was not too thrilled about letting us pass, but he did. There is a lot of interesting fauna on the way, but because of the rain, we decide to keep on trekking to our boat ride.


The cruise is 2 hours long and is dependent on the weather so we were a bit concerned as to whether or not the boat would go.  The rain let up briefly, we piled onto the boat, and off we went!

As we headed out towards the fjords, the air was heavy with rain and the clouds were low. The mountains were originally as big as the Himalayas and as we passed the clouds parted ever so slowly, revealing waterfalls and small areas of snow up the sides of these very tall mountains.   We travel down to the end of the lake where we stop at a small dock.   A few hikers disembark and wave to us as we pull away.   This is the hiking trail dock and you can only go through the mountain trails with a guide or a special pass as there are no marked trails. We wish them well and hope they find a dry spot to camp for the night!


The boat company, Bon Tours, is the only boat touring company on the lake so it really is only you out there on the lake.   The waters are calm and as we turn around the clouds seem to be parting just a bit more, giving us a glimpse of the blue sky.   We have a nice ride back and the long 45-minute walk to return to the parking lot was relatively dry.


Once we were back at the parking lot, we were peeling off our wet clothes and a man came by and asked us if we had eaten lunch yet.   We said no, and he handed us a flyer for St. Mary’s Lobster Dinner fundraiser. For $25C, you get lobster, all you can eat salads, fresh homemade bread, scones, and molasses cookies!   What is not to love?   The lobster season had already ended so they have a deal with the local lobstermen who keep them in traps in the ocean in a sheltered area until this fundraiser.   Nice and fresh!   Well worth the stop and one of our best meals.


Moose sightings: 0


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